Ladder stitch is the option to reach for when a repair shouldn't show. Also known as the invisible or hidden stitch, it joins two folded edges from the right side of the fabric, so you can close a split seam or mend a torn lining without unpicking anything or turning the garment inside out.
What ladder stitch is used for
- Closing a seam that has split
- Mending a torn lining in a coat or jacket
- Closing the gap left after turning something right side out
- Reattaching a loose pocket, facing or trim
What you'll need
- A hand-sewing needle
- Thread matched as closely as possible to your fabric
- Scissors
- An iron (optional, but helpful)
How to sew a ladder stitch
- Thread your needle and knot the end. Double the thread for extra strength on seams that take strain.
- Press the seam allowance under on each edge so the two folds meet. On a split seam the original folds are usually still there, so just press them crisp.
- Bring the needle out from inside one fold so the knot is hidden.
- Cross straight over to the opposite fold, directly across from where the thread emerged. Insert the needle into the fold and run it along inside for about 5mm before bringing it out. Use shorter stitches on fine fabrics and slightly longer ones on thicker fabrics.
- Cross straight back to the first side, entering directly opposite where the thread came out, and run the needle along inside that fold for another 5mm.
- Keep going. The key is to cross straight over each time, perpendicular to the folds, never diagonally. After a few stitches, the thread looks like the rungs of a ladder.
- Every few centimetres, pull the thread taut. The rungs disappear and the folds butt neatly together. Pulling at intervals, rather than all at once at the end, stops the thread snapping or the fabric puckering.
- To finish, take a tiny stitch, pass the needle through the loop to form a knot and repeat twice more. Then take the needle into the seam and out a couple of centimetres away, pull gently and snip, so the tail disappears inside.
Why it's invisible. The thread only ever travels inside the folds. The only thread that is exposed is the short rung crossing between the two edges, and when you pull it taut, the folds close over it. Crossing straight rather than diagonally is what keeps those rungs short enough to vanish.
Making it stronger
Ladder stitch is neat rather than heavy-duty. On a seam that takes strain, such as an underarm or the seat of a pair of trousers, sew back along the seam a second time, then anchor the thread with a few small stitches in a hidden spot. If you can reach the seam from the inside, a machine or hand backstitch will always be the stronger fix.
Where to use it next
Once you have the technique, it's the quickest way to rescue a split side seam on a dress or a torn lining in a coat or jacket. For holes rather than seams, see our guide on how to mend a small hole, and for anything more involved, our directory of UK repair services will point you towards a local professional.