Zips take more strain than almost any other part of a garment, so it's no surprise they're often the first thing to go. The good news is that most zip problems are really slider problems, not faults in the zip itself, which means they can be fixed at home with a pencil and a pair of pliers. Before you replace the zip or retire the garment, work through the fixes below.
What you'll need
- Small pliers (needle-nose are ideal)
- A graphite pencil, bar of soap, candle or lip balm
- A pin, needle or cocktail stick
- Small scissors
- Needle and thread
The zip is stuck
Look closely first. A stray thread or a fold of fabric caught in the slider is the most common culprit, so check the section below before anything else. If nothing is caught, the teeth probably need lubricating.
Rub the tip of a graphite pencil along the teeth on either side of the slider, then work the slider gently back and forth. Graphite is a dry lubricant: it is made of thin layers that slide over one another under pressure, so it reduces friction without leaving a greasy film that attracts dirt. A bar of soap, candle wax or lip balm will also do the job.
If a zip on a coat or bag is clogged with dirt or salt, clean the teeth with warm soapy water and an old toothbrush, and let it dry before testing.
Fabric or thread is caught in the zip
This is the simplest fix of all. Ease the fabric out with a pin or cocktail stick while gently working the slider backwards. Avoid forcing it forwards, which drives the fabric deeper. Once it is free, trim any loose threads.
If the thread belongs to a seam that is coming undone, don't cut it. Use a needle to pull it through to the inside of the garment, knot it and trim the excess. If you can't reach it, a tiny dot of fabric glue will hold the loose stitch in place.
The teeth are crooked
Bent teeth stop the slider meshing properly. Move the slider clear of the damaged section, then gently squeeze each bent tooth back into line with pliers. Go slowly, as metal teeth can snap if they are pushed too far, and test the slider after each adjustment.
The zip splits open behind the slider
If the zip closes but the teeth separate again behind the slider, the slider has worn and splayed slightly, so it no longer presses the two rows of teeth together firmly enough to lock them. Move the slider to the bottom of the zip and squeeze its two plates together gently with pliers, a little on each side, testing between each squeeze. Too much pressure will jam it, so small adjustments are best.
The zip has come off one side
On a closed-end zip, this usually means the top stop has worn away and the slider has run off the end. Open the zip fully, ease the loose side back into the top of the slider and work it down evenly. Then create a new stop by stitching several times over the top few teeth with strong thread, so the slider can't run off again.
An open-ended zip won't start at the bottom
Coats and jackets use open-ended zips, where a pin on one side slots into a box on the other. If the pin is bent, try straightening it with pliers. If the pin or box is broken, or teeth are missing at the base, the zip needs replacing. Our guide on how to replace a zip covers both hand and machine methods, and any local haberdashery can advise on a replacement.
When the zip can't be saved
If you'd rather not sew, our directory of UK repair services can point you to a tailor or mender nearby. And if a piece simply no longer suits you once it's fixed, give it a second life through Baukjen Pre-Loved.