A good shearling jacket is an investment piece, and one that repays a little care with decades of wear. Shearling is sheepskin tanned with the wool left on, so you're really caring for two materials at once: suede or leather on the outside and wool on the inside. The following advice suits most shearling garments, but always check the care label first. Not sure what the symbols mean? See our guide to care labels.
Why shearling rarely needs cleaning
Wool fibres are coated in lanolin and have a scaly outer surface that sheds dirt and resists odour, so the fleece side stays fresh for a long time. That means most shearling care is brushing and spot cleaning, and a full clean should be a rare event.
Everyday care
- Brush the suede side with a suede brush or stone, always in one direction. This lifts surface dirt and restores the nap.
- Brush the fleece side with a wide-tooth comb, or a soft pet brush for curly shearling, to keep it from matting.
- Air it between wears on a hanger rather than folding it over a chair.
How to spot clean shearling
Act quickly and blot rather than rub, which pushes marks deeper into the suede. Use a slightly damp cloth, with a little mild soap only if needed, then blot away the excess moisture with a dry cloth and leave to dry at room temperature. Test on a hidden area first.
For grease marks, sprinkle cornflour or talc over the stain, leave it overnight to absorb the oil, then brush it away. A specialist sheepskin or suede cleaner is worth having for anything more stubborn.
If your shearling gets wet
Shearling jackets are made for winter, so rain and snow are part of life. Shake off surface water, and if the jacket is soaked, roll it in a towel to absorb as much as possible. Then hang it on a sturdy hanger to dry at room temperature, away from radiators, fires and direct sun.
Why heat is the enemy. Rapid drying pulls moisture out of the skin faster than it can adjust, so the leather shrinks, stiffens and can crack. Slow drying at room temperature lets it recover its shape. Once dry, brush the suede to lift the nap.
Professional cleaning
Only when your shearling is heavily soiled, and only with a specialist in leather and sheepskin. Never machine wash it or send it for standard dry cleaning. Where you can, choose a cleaner that avoids harsh solvents; our general care tips explain what to look for.
How to store shearling
- Use a breathable cover. A cotton garment bag or paper, never plastic. Plastic traps moisture, which leads to mildew, and leather needs to breathe.
- Choose a sturdy hanger. Shearling is heavy, and a thin wire hanger will distort the shoulders.
- Keep it cool, dry and dark. Direct light fades suede over time.
- Give it space so the fleece isn't crushed flat.
- Guard against moths. Clothes moth larvae feed on keratin, the protein in wool, so the fleece side is vulnerable. Clean your jacket before storing it, as moths are drawn to body oils and food traces, tuck in cedar blocks or lavender sachets and check it now and then.